Laminate floor is made of three basic layers; A high-density base, with a printed design on top a core, a backing and coated with an acrylic lacquer. There is no real wood in a laminate board.
Laminate flooring is highly durable and can be installed over nearly any kind of sub flooring. They are hard-wearing and resistant to marking, staining and heating and may be suitable for use in kitchens.
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At Cleaning Doctor we provide a comprehensive service to sand and seal wooden floors. We will impeccably finish a newly laid wooden floor or restore a well used scratched and dented floor to an immaculate finish. We can restore all types of wood, including softwood such as pine and hardwoods like oak, mahogany and ash.
Your wooden floors are a valuable asset and deserve the best that is available. We use a sanding machine that has four multi drive rotating sanding discs and a vacuum dust removal system. This system is significantly superior to commonly used barrel sanders, which can gouge and mark a floor. Our system may be slower but the finished surface is absolutely outstanding.
We use only the best that is available in seals and floor dressings to enhance the wood-grain and protect the surface. The type of finish you want will define the type of seal or floor dressing we apply. For example, you may want a wax finish on a pine bedroom floor and a hard polyurethane finish on an oak dining room floor. A floor seal will withstand a certain amount of wear before it is worn away and will then need professional replacing. A floor dressing can also be applied to protect a seal or the bare wood. Please ask your local Cleaning Doctor Wooden Floor Restoration specialist for advice on which is the best protective coating for your particular wooden floor.
Hardwood floors that are kept in good condition add a sense of elegance and beauty to any home. Caring and maintaining them may be daunting but with a little know-how you can keep them looking as good as new.
* Superficial blemishes can be eliminated by taking fine steel wool and a floor cleaner and lightly rubbing in the direction of the grain. Tougher stains should be treated with oxalic acid. Be sure to wear rubber gloves when applying to a stain.
* For cigarette burns that are not too deep, sand with sand paper, then finish by sanding with soapy steel wool and water. Dry with a soft cloth and apply a finish coat and sealant floor is dry. Apply a coat of wax for your final touch.
* For a fast refinishing job, dip steel wool into denatured alcohol and remove built-up wax. Any boards that have large cracks or gouges will have to be pulled up, replaced, sanded, and then varnished. After this is done, pour alcohol over a four foot square area for about five minutes. Make sure the room is well ventilated and that there are no nearby flames or heat sources around, then scrub with steel wool and the wipe with a soft, clean rag.
You will need to rent a drum sander and buy fine, medium, and coarse grained sandpaper.
SAFETY GOGGLES
DUST MASK
PLASTIC SHEETS
TAPE
HAND SCRAPER
SOFT RAGS
WOOD STAIN
SOLVENT
WOOD PUTTY
PUTTY KNIFE
VARNISH
BRUSH AND/OR ROLLER
A. First of all make sure there are no protruding nails coming up out of the floors so that it wont tear the sandpaper. Beginning in one corner work diagonally across the room at a 45-degree angle and work the length of the flooring. Use the coarsest grit of sandpaper to start with. You do not want the belt of the sander to be in contact with the floor when turning the machine in a different direction so be sure to use extra care when doing so. Also do not stop in one place when the motor is on. This will gouge the floor and ruin it. When finished, sand again with same grain of paper but this time go only in the direction of the wood grain.
NOTE: Do not use diagonal method if the floor is already smooth and even.
B. To sand the border, you will need to use a hand sander. Use a hand scrape to remove the old finish in the corners and then lightly sand with a strip of sandpaper. Vacuum and sweep up all the dust from the floors.
C. Fill tiny gaps with wood putty that matches the color you intend to stain the floor using a putty knife.
D. Next, you will need to sand the floor again, but this time you should use the medium grit paper. Repeat the instructions from above and then sand again for the final time, using the fine grit paper. The surface of the floor should be even and silky smooth.
E. Vacuum and dust well, and apply stain to clean rags and work across the floor. Avoid overlapping the stokes. Allow to dry for 24 hours. Finally, varnish with a brush or roller applying additional coats (after each coat is dry) until the wood is the color you want.
Following these steps will enable your floors to remain in great condition throughout the years to come.